we believe that a well-cared-for home is a joyful home. our care tips are gleaned from years of experience in ensuring our interiors last a lifetime.

  • general care Keep furniture away from direct sunlight. To prevent fading, move or rotate positions based on location. Keep away from heating or air conditioning units. Use window treatments or protective film to control sun damage. Natural fibers like silk and linen are more susceptible to fading. Rotate cushions on a regular basis to avoid pilling.

    fabrics We always recommend a professional service for best cleaning results on fine fabrics. At home, spot cleaning should be done only when necessary. Check fiber content, be sure you are using the right cleaning products for your type of fabric. Upholstery labels are commonly coded as one of the following: W (water-based clean), S (dry clean only), S/W (wet or dry clean), X (vacuum or light-brushing only). If your item requires water to clean, always use distilled water. Before cleaning, Vacuum upholstery to remove all loose dirt, do not use brush attachments. Always test cleaners or water on an inconspicuous area of the upholstery to ensure it won’t damage, discolor, stain or shrink fabric. Allow area to dry completely for accurate test. Clean spills immediately after they occur. Use a clean, dry cloth to soak up liquid. Blot until all liquid is absorbed. Never rub fabric to clean spills. Never use forced heat to dry spills or wet spots. Gently clean stains with a safe, appropriate product specific for your fabric.

    performance fabrics Many of these fabrics are waterproof and stain resistant, similar to outdoor fabrics. Some fibers, such as solution-dyed acrylics, are more durable than others and don’t need additional care. Other fabrics may only be coated and need to be retreated at regular intervals for protection.

  • general care We recommend cleaning chandeliers or light fixtures at least once a year. To stretch time between cleanings, dust your chandelier lightly every two or three months with a feather or lambswool duster. Always remove shades and vacuum them before cleaning. Never use water to clean linen, fabric or paper shades.

    before cleaning When necessary, hire a professional to clean complicated light fixtures or any lighting in hard-to-reach areas. Many chandeliers have complex hanging patterns for their glass or crystal. Before you begin, make note of how the fixture is designed—take a photo to help you remember how its parts go together. Remove from power before cleaning. Never twirl or rotate the fixture in place. If the fixture is generally hard to reach, this may be a good time to replace the light bulbs. Use the manufacturer-recommended bulb shape, style and wattage. Replace all bulbs in the fixture at one time so that all light levels are the same.

    opt for led light bulbs We recommend switching to LED light bulbs where necessary. These bulbs are more efficient and ecofriendly than most other household bulbs, and are generally made to fit into traditional sockets. These bulbs do not get hot, and prevent burning on silk or paper shades. Ask your electrician to ensure that all dimmers are LED compatible. Keep in mind that these bulbs are measured in lumens rather than watts, so be sure to choose a replacement bulb that matches your socket requirements. Understand that LED bulbs emit a wider color temperature range, measured in Kelvin. Typical household LEDs range from 2,700 to 3,500 Kelvin. A lower Kelvin scores equals a warm and more yellow color, while higher Kelvin scores are cool and more blue. Make sure to choose a shade that fits the bulb’s purpose.

    cleaning glass and crystal Determine if a glass-off or glass-on method is necessary for your light fixture. The glass-off method involves removing all glass or crystal from the frame for a complete cleanse of each piece. The glass-on method is a much faster process that allows to clean the fixture without deconstruction. Fill a spray bottle with solution of one part isopropyl alcohol to four parts distilled water. Dampen a white cotton glove with solution and wipe glass or crystal. Dry immediately with another glove. For chandeliers with heavier dirt build up, you can hand-wash glass or crystal with warm water and mild dish soap. Rinse immediately with clean water, then dry with a soft clean cloth.

  • general care All stone is porous and can change with use. Clean stone regularly with a ph-neutral cleaner and wipe up any spills immediately. Always use cleaners made specifically for your type of stone. Never use abrasives or acidic cleaners. Always use a cutting board over stone countertops, and be careful with acidic items. Use pads and coasters underneath hot items or drinks. Protect stone floors with runners and mats. For stone fireplaces, clean soot frequently with natural stone cleaner.

    marble, slate and natural stone Marble is renowned for its beauty and classic look. It has been used outdoors in fountains, sculpture and architecture for thousands of years. It will patina with time, and that is a characteristic of its beauty. Polished surfaces show more use, honing marble will hide etching and other marks overtime. There are new surface treatments to protect marble and can be applied at anytime. Use cleaners made specifically for marble and other natural stone such as quartzite, granite, onyx, travertine or limestone. Common household cleaners can have hard acids or alkalies that could etch or dull it. Watch out for acids such as lemons and red wine, and never use vinegar on marble. Remove grease stains with cornstarch. Reduce scratches with baking soda. Apply marble sealer to enhance stain protection, we recommend professionally sealing marble once a year. Stone can be treated with an enhancer to bring back its natural beauty overtime.

    quartz Quartz is made with a combination of natural stone, colorants and binding materials. Use cleaners made specifically for quartz. For dried spills or heavy stains, use quartz cleaner with a nonabrasive sponge. Use a degreasing product to remove grease stains. Quartz countertops are not meant for heavy duty cooking. Use hot pads when placing hot skillets, pots or pans on top of your counters. Most quartzes are not flame resistant and cannot handle direct heat. Quartz slabs are manufactured to be resistant to stains, but they are not completely impervious to substances such as nail polish remover, hair dye, oil-based soaps or lipstick. Quartz does not need to be sealed—once a slab of quartz is manufactured, the resins, bonding material and pigments will form a nonporous surface that naturally seals itself for its lifetime.

  • general care Before cleaning, determine if your cabinets are stained or painted. It’s helpful to know what wood species you are working with for durability. Give cabinets a weekly spot treatment with an all-purpose cleaner and microfiber cloth to wipe away fingerprints, grease and other marks. Use distilled water to prevent water stains. Dust cabinets and disinfectknobs on a regular basis. Frequently monitor cabinets in common areas, such as above the kitchen range. These areas need the most care as they can be exposed to grease, grime and steam on a regular basis.

    deep cleaning Give cabinets a deep clean three or four times per year. Remove and empty out all drawers and shelves. Wipe down with a mild cleaner and microfiber cloth. Use an old toothbrush to treat corners and small crevices. Make sure to clean all internal hinges and drawer hardware for optimal functionality. Clean any glass interior or door pieces with glass cleaner. Let all cabinet pieces dry completely before reassembling and restocking. Use protective shelf liners where appropriate.

    removing stains Remove most common stains with a microfiber cloth dampened with a solution of half white vinegar, half warm water. Buff area clean with a polishing cloth. Tough stains can be tackled with a paste of baking soda and water. Let paste sit on stain for a few minutes, then gently wipe away with a wet cloth. For scuffs, gently rub with magic eraser then wipe away residue with a clean cloth. wood-stained cabinets To clean and shine wood-stained cabinets, dampen a soft cloth with a small amount of oil soap. Wipe from top to bottom with the grain of the wood. Dry and polish with a microfiber cloth. Always use dampened, not soaked, cloths. Too much liquid saturation can damage the wood.

    painted wood cabinets To clean painted cabinets, use an all-purpose cleaner or mild detergent. Use caution while cleaning or scrubbing to prevent damage. After several years of wear, it may be time to consider having a professional repaint your cabinets. Ask your cabinet manufacturer for a touch-up kit—custom-painted cabinets contain a unique formula.

  • general care Dust, clean and polish metal items regularly. Do not use steel wool or other abrasive sponges or scrubber pads. Do not use chlorine-based or oven cleaners. Use microfiber cloths while cleaning to prevent scratches. brass or bronze Lacquered brass is treated to keep its original beauty. To clean, wipe area down with a mild solution of warm, soapy water. Dry the area thoroughly with a clean cloth. Unlacquered brass tends to form a natural patina and may eventually darken with age. Many clients appreciate the antique quality of unlacquered brass. Keep it conditioned by polishing it every few months with a brass cleaner such as Brasso Multi Purpose Metal Polish.

    nickel Nickel can either be a polished or satin finish. To clean, dampen cloth with water and a drop of mild washing detergent, then rub surface to remove minor stains. Rinse surface with water and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth. Use a bit of nickel polish and buff surface to add shine and protect from further stains.

    stainless steel Stainless steel is one of the more challenging surfaces to keep clean of fingerprints, but is loved for its modern look. To clean, spray appliance with a stainless steel cleaner or white vinegar and wipe clean with microfiber cloth. To polish, use a bit of olive oil and wipe the cloth in direction of the grain.

    zinc and copper Zinc and copper are reactive metals that age overtime—zinc will oxidize to a dark metallic color, and copper will turn brown. Occasionally wash with lukewarm, soapy water to keep objects shiny. Harsh abrasives could scratch off the surface of coated items, so it’s best to determine if the item is 100% metal or coated. Copper is sensitive to air and tarnishes quickly, but most pieces are protected by a factory-applied lacquer. For extra tarnished copper, use a commercial copper cleaner.

  • general care Daily drapery care is simple—give your curtains or drapes a gentle shake as they are drawn closed at night. This will prevent dust, pet hair and allergens from lodging into the fibers. Every month or so, clean with a handheld vacuum and soft brush attachment on low suction. Always secure trims, hems and other embellishments before vacuuming.

    professional cleaning Window treatments are designed to maintain their beauty without too much upkeep. When necessary, we always recommend a professional cleaning service like Fiber-Seal to handle. In this case, professional reinstallation may be needed.

    sunlight fading Sunlight can affect the color vibrancy and luster of draperies. To prevent fading, add blinds, solar shades or drapery linings as a second layer to the windows.

    ironing and steaming When necessary, it is possible to iron or steam curtains or drapes on their reverse side. Avoid heat on silk or velvet. Relax wrinkles by spritzing area lightly with plain water and lightly tug on the bottom hem. Let curtains dry before reattaching to the hardware.

  • general care Know the material of your tile for proper care. Sweep or vacuum tile floors to remove dust or debris before using cleaning products. Damp mop tile floors at least once a week to decrease wear and abrasion. For extra protection, invest in floor mats and protective pads to place at door entrances or use under heavy furniture.

    cleaning tile Clean tile regularly with a multi-purpose, water-based household cleaner. Avoid wax-based or oil-based detergents. Avoid using steel wool pads or any metal scouring pads to clean tile. Follow the same care instructions for natural material tile, such as marble or travertine.

    cleaning grout To remove dirt, use a solution of two parts baking soda to one part hydrogen peroxide, along with a few drops of dish soap. Spoon mixture onto the grout and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Scrub grout lines with tooth brush, then sponge area with hot water to rinse. Bleach cleaners should not be used for routine maintenance. If grout is deeply stained or discolored, you may have to replace it or have it professionally steam-cleaned. If you decide to regrout, contact a tile specialist.

  • leather and shagreen Leathers vary in color and texture, every hide is completely unique. It is produced with different levels of protection. Some leathers are much softer and are made to show wear and natural markings that are part of their beauty. Other leathers have a stronger protective coating and maintain their original form. Most leathers are dyed and can stain certain materials that come into contact. Vacuum or dust frequently with a clean, dry cloth. If soiled, used a soft damp cloth with mild soap and lukewarm water. Wipe entire surface, do not spot clean. Make sure to let area dry completely without forced heat. If stains remain, contact a professional cleaner.

    acrylic and lucite To clean, work gently with a microfiber cloth and plastic cleaning solution such as Brillianize. Common cleaners can make acrylic appear cloudy. Never use Windex or any product that contains ammonia. For mild scratches, use Novus Plastic Polish Kit 7100. For deep scratches, turn to a professional to buff the surface.

    cement or concrete Cement or concrete is naturally porous and not impervious to staining. It should always be sealed for protection. Overtime, it will develop a natural patina. Avoid contact with acidic foods or direct heat. Use nonabrasive products when cleaning cement or concrete. For added protection or polishing, use carnauba wax every 2–5 months.

    wicker and cane Keep natural fibers out of the sun and away from heat sources, these furnishings are meant to be used indoors or in a covered location. Vacuum and dust regularly to maintain quality. Avoid using abrasive chemicals and wipe up any water spills immediately.

  • general care Turn rugs once or twice a year to even out wear caused by foot traffic or sun exposure, note that most fine rugs have a lighter or darker side from how they are woven. Rugs should be vacuumed frequently, but be mindful of vacuum height and brush roller. Remove dirt on rugs with a stiff brush, always in the same direction as the nap of the rug. Using a rug pad will extend the life of your rug—location in home and frequency of use will determine the best type of pad.

    cleaning We always recommend using a professional cleaning service to clean and protect fine rugs. Knowing the fiber content will help determine its care. Rugs made with natural materials like wool or silk are intrinsically more durable and can tolerate regular care for many years. Rugs made with viscose do not tolerate water, and professional cleaning is highly recommended.

    woven or braided rugs Look for any stitching breaks before and after cleaning. Small snags can be trimmed and loose bindings should be restitched. To clean, sponge commercial carpet-cleaning foam over the surface and rub it in according to label directions. Rinse or vacuum and dry thoroughly before placing rug back in its location.

    handmade, antique and oriental rugs Learn as much as you can from the seller about the rug’s fiber content and construction. These rugs are usually made of wool or silk. It’s best to have these professionally cleaned once a year.

    nylon, polyester or polypropylene These man-made fiber rugs are very durable and usually come with a manufacturer’s warranty. They are low maintenance and only require regular vacuuming and spot cleaning as needed.

    coir, sisal, rush and grass rugs Dirt can sift through these types of rugs, so be sure to vacuum the floor beneath. Remove stains with a soft brush, do not use water.

    fur, sheepskin and hair-on hide rugs To freshen, shake unscented talcum powder on rug and leave on for several hours. Brush powder through hair then shake out. Consult a professional cleaner for regular cleaning or stain removal.

  • general care Vacuum, dust and sweep floors regularly. Protect high-traffic areas with rugs and place floor mats by exterior doors to lessen tracked in dirt. Using rug pads offer extra protection in high-traffic areas. Encourage shoe removal and avoid high heels as much as possible. Keep pet nails trimmed to prevent scratches. Do not adhere any tape, even blue painters tape, directly to wood floors. Invest in adhesive furniture pads to prevent scratches, especially on dining chairs and bar stools. Use padding or gliders for rolling any items across floors. It’s helpful to know if your floors are solid or engineered wood, and what wood species.

    cleaning hardwood Clean hardwood with very mild ingredients or a manufacturer-recommended product. We recommend Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner or Basic Coatings Squeaky Cleaner. You can also use a homemade solution of 1 part white vinegar to 8 parts water. Always clean up water or spills immediately to protect the finish of your floor. Never wet mop wood floors!

    waxing hardwood Revive dull floors by waxing them. Follow manufacturer’s instructions about which wax to use and how to apply. First, you must determine how your floor is surfaced. No-wax floors, vinyl and urethane-finished floors cannot be waxed. To restore urethane-finished surfaces, you will need to have them refinished or recoated.

    refinishing or recoating hardwood We recommend contacting a professional to undertake either of these processes. If you wish to fix deep scratches, uneven coloring or discoloration, a refinish is necessary. Recoating can restore the beauty and sheen of your hardwood floors at half the cost, labor and time of a complete refinish. The process involves screening, meaning lightly sanding, the floor’s top coat and applying a new varnish. Keep in mind that waxed floors and some very old or damaged flooring may not be repaired by recoating.

    luxury vinyl tile or plank The beauty of lvt/lvp flooring is that it is durable and waterproof. To clean, sweep with a soft bristle broom. Damp mop as needed with clean water and a non-abrasive floor cleaner.

  • Artwork comes in many forms and mediums—oil, acrylic, sculpture, prints, glass and mixed media. It’s important to know how to best care for the longevity of your investment.

    displaying Be mindful of where you display artwork in your home, especially with paintings. The best place to hang artwork is on a wall stud, where you can securely anchor wall hooks. Choose a location with reasonable humidity, away from any heat sources and out of direct sunlight. It’s always best to use a professional picture hanger to hang art with proper hardware. Invest in museum glass to prevent glare and damage from ultraviolet light.

    climate sensitivity Humidity, as well as rapid temperature changes, can eventually deteriorate artwork. Make sure to frequently monitor any art hung near fireplaces or heating vents. Art hung above heat sources or hung in rooms like the kitchen, bathroom or sunroom can experience far more wear and tear than normal. Overtime, art may need to be reframed or canvases may need tightened to hang properly.

    cleaning or restoring Artwork may be safely dusted using a clean, soft and dry brush. Be cautious of any loose or exposed materials. We recommend hiring a professional to clean or restore artwork with any noticeable stains, damage, discoloration or signs of aging. Cleaning and care varies by medium—make sure to research accurate methods if you decide to clean the artwork yourself.

    framing Framing can be made of various materials such as wood, painted or glazed metals. The same care on artwork should be considered for framing materials. Sometimes framing is more expensive than the artwork, it’s best to consult a professional for proper cleaning or restoration.

    professional support Painting and art conservators are your best source of information for consultations, restoration, framing, appraisals and transporting.

  • general care The best way to protect outdoor furniture is to invest in protective covering. Outdoor furniture and fabrics should be cleaned regularly to prevent dirt, mold or mildew from accumulating. Cover furniture when not in use or store them indoors during harsh weather or off seasons. Remove cushions during inclement weather. Store furniture upright to allow any accumulated water to drain. Immediately address any stains from food or tanning lotions to maintain the longevity of the fabric.

    cleaning outdoor fabrics Begin by vacuuming all areas to remove loose dirt. Use sponge in a solution of 2 ounces of mild dish soap and 8 cups of lukewarm water. Allow solution to soak in fabrics. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. Let fabrics air dry in a clean, dry area—preferably set on its side under sunlight. Never steam press cushions or use in the dryer, as they will likely shrink under excessive heat. A wet vac might also come in handy. To remove mildew, use a solution of 8 ounces bleach and 2 ounces dish soap per 1 gallon distilled water. Spray on entire area and let soak into fabric. Scrub vigorously with soft bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with clean water. Air dry in a well-ventilated, clean and dry area.

    off-season care Metal, wicker, resin and teak frames should be cleaned, stored and covered during off season. Make sure your frames are water, sun and wind proof in storage. Teak frames are made to weather overtime and will eventually turn gray. Frequent treatment is required to slow this process, if desired. Outdoor furniture is made to weather the elements and should provide many years of enjoyment.